Paul do Mar is a town on the southern coast of Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal. Fish is landed daily at the modernized port. The port may have modern facilities, but it is not uncommon to see fishermen sitting cross-legged baiting longlines.
To get to Paul do Mar, take the “rapido” (fast road) from Funchal and drive west.
Try to ignore the detour to the beaches of Calheta – you’re headed for something much more exciting! Continue through the tunnel systems, always on the fast track until you are at the large oval roundabout with signs for Jardim da Mar and Paul do Mar.
The views are captivating and the roads winding and steep. Pull over and park safely for that “Kodak” moment. One such viewpoint, “Miradoura”, is located just before the entrance of the tunnel that takes you to Paul do Mar. Just stop for a moment or two to gaze at the waves crashing on the shoreline at Jardim do Mar. In winter, In the surfing community, they will be sitting astride their long waxed boards, waiting for the perfect wave. They look like a row of black ducks until you get the full picture: they’re not that small, it’s the waves that are THAT big!
Drive through the long tunnel to Paul do Mar. Take the detour that takes you to Porto; it is on the left immediately at the end of the tunnel.
You will see a coffee shop on the right. Under the shade of the giant rubber tree, fishermen waiting to go out to sea play cards and dominoes. Follow the road to the port, where it is good to park.
The Bayside restaurant is a must for coffee and a slice of cake. Sit back and people watch. People working, people playing, children collecting fish for dinner in plastic bags that they can barely carry…
The harbor has a collection of fishing boats, from brightly colored clinker-built wooden open boats to a large red metal dinghy, which looks serious and is moored to the largest harbor wall.
Exit to the harbor wall to look back at the village. The old town is crouched under the great cliff that runs through the back of the entire town. There is an impressive waterfall next to the harbor buildings. To the east you will see Jardim do Mar balanced on the earthen platform under a continuation of the same mountain and cliff. The town of Paul do Mar heads west, past the gravel and rock beach with the beautiful statue of a fisherman gazing out at the ocean. Follow the small path near the rubber tree. This path is not passable for the first few hundred meters. It is little more than a wide path. The houses crowd on both sides of the gray and white traced pavement, characteristic of Madeira.
Stroll from the port down the narrow street and notice the variety of sizes, colors and decoration of the houses. It’s a long past time compared to other places.
There are cafes and bars dotted along the way. At the end of the tessellated pavement is a cafe/restaurant on the left. No view and they certainly don’t speak English, but they do serve fantastic fresh fish!
If you venture all the way, you’ll find Maktoub’s, a trendy bar serving local surfers. The view from this bar is of the ocean in one direction and the mountainside in the other. The staff is friendly and interesting. This bar just highlights the difference between Funchal; much visited by tourists with many facilities and organized “tourism” and Paul do Mar, with quirky, hardworking local people and interesting cafes. Visit both and tell me which one do you prefer?
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