Ok, now it’s time to put your merchants to work (if you’re using any). Who needs to do what, and when?…
Installation – Part 2
Time for the electrician: laying cables for lights and sockets
o Well, assuming there are only four bare walls where your kitchen used to be, it’s time for the electrician to run the wires for any outlets or switches being installed. There are also likely wires to run in the ceiling if you’re switching from a single light fixture to multiple bulbs. If you live in a bungalow, the electrician will be able to run these from the loft without disturbing the ceiling too much. If you live in a two-story house, a certain amount of ‘ripping’ will need to be done to route the cable through the ceiling joists. A lot of people are moving away from heavily Artex-coated ceilings now, so this doesn’t have to be a problem if you’re going to plaster the ceiling anyway.
o If your home does not currently have a kitchen control point and your electrician has told you that you need one, now is the time to install the extra heavy duty wire for this as well. It will come directly from the fuse box/consumer unit in the house, so make sure you have easy access to it.
plumbers and pipes
o Plumbing has become much easier these days with the advent of ‘push-fit’ pipe fittings etc. and simply extending the pipes might be within your capabilities. If your home has a combi boiler installed this will make isolating hot and cold water much easier as you can simply turn off the water at the main pipe (often under the kitchen sink) and it will stop the flow to both .
Now is the time to run the pipes under the floor if you are moving the location of the sink or cooktop. However, before beginning, the relative positions of these should be marked on the wall or floor so that your pipes terminate in the correct place.
o However, if you are rerouting your gas lines, this MUST be done by a qualified CORGI installer (most reputable plumbers are).
Plaster
o If you have removed partitions or installed wiring for ceiling lights and wall switches, then you probably need the services of a drywaller. This is one of those trades that the pros make look so easy, but in reality, it’s quite the opposite! My advice is to get someone else to do it instead of trying it yourself, unless it’s patching small areas. Now is the best time to do this job as it is quite a complicated process and the room will be clear. If your house has central heating, the plaster should dry in 2-3 days, depending on the depth.
High and high units first
o Good, your kitchen has been delivered and you are ready to start installing it. Be sure to remove any old fixings, screws or nails from the wall (no need to go around filling the stud holes at this stage, as most will be covered by the units anyway).
o If the units came packaged, you will need to assemble them. Focus on any pantry and wall units first and build these. If you’ve ever built a flat pack wardrobe before this should be easy enough and once you’ve made one the rest will be easy.
o If you are installing tall pantry units or appliance casings, they will likely dictate the height of your wall units. These are normally placed at the start of a run and are the best place to start anyway. If none are to be installed, most tall units are fixed around 450-500mm above the height of the worktop (see below).
Wall units are attached in a slightly different way to base units and usually come with brackets that are attached to the wall first. The unit is then hung on brackets and adjusted for height and level from the inside. Installing your wall units first saves you from having to stretch over a previously installed base unit, making it much easier on your back!
Base cabinets, then countertops
o Consult your plan and mark on the wall which units go where. Then mark the height of the worktop (typically 870mm from the floor, includes 150mm for the plinth) and use a spirit level to mark a horizontal line on the wall. Using this as your height guide, secure the units to the wall with L-brackets, plugs and screws (usually supplied). Use the adjustable plastic feet to ensure all units are the same height.
Advice: If you have under trim lighting it might be an idea to run a pull cord through the back of the appropriate wall units now, otherwise the electrician may have a hard time connecting the supply (which you probably left at the top of the wall). unit) to the light below.
o If your kitchen layout is a straight line or galley design, installing the countertop shouldn’t be too difficult, there are no joints to make. However, if you have an L- or U-shaped kitchen, a professional installer could create a nearly invisible joint using a special jig and a high-powered router. Tools you are unlikely to have. An economical and simple option is to use aluminum slats for countertop joints. You will have to decide which one you prefer depending on the look you are going for and your budget.
Cutouts for the sink and hob should be within your means though, just make sure you make them with the countertop attached to the base units (otherwise it will probably break when you lift it into place). Always use the template to mark the cut if one was supplied with the sink/hob. If not, make sure not to place the sink upside down on the counter and mark around it, otherwise it will fall right through the hole. I’ve seen it done 🙁
Plumber for sink, faucet, dishwasher, washing machine and hob
o After the plumber’s ‘first installation’, you should arrange for him to return at this stage to finish connecting the faucet, washing machine and dishwasher (if installed). It will also connect the hob if it is gas and will check for leaks. If you previously had an outside faucet or want to install one, now is a good time to ask.
We’re in the home stretch now – last day of installation tomorrow.
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