How to read jewelry marks

Number markings on precious gold jewelry are a bit confusing to many people. We are usually used to seeing a karat or silver mark like this: 10K, 14K, 18K, Sterling, etc. The numbers mean the same thing.

For 14k, the number is technically 583, but most manufacturers have adopted the European way and make 14k gold a little over 14k, so the mark is 585 on most 14k jewelry. 18K is marked as 750. If the mark is valid and there is also a maker’s mark on the jewelry, the number means these items are 18k gold.

This is where the numbers come from. Pure gold is called 24 karat. For 18 karat gold, there are 18 parts of pure gold mixed with other metals to make the metal suitable for use in jewelry. 24k is too soft just to pick up or hold stones well. 18 parts of pure gold divided by 24, or 18/24 equals 750. That’s where the number comes from. The jewelry is 75% pure gold, 750 parts gold with 250 parts other metals out of “1000” parts. It’s easier to think of it as a percentage that is pure gold in the recipe.

Sterling silver is marked 925. Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and the rest is another metal, usually copper.

What does it mean if the ring marked 14K PR? The 14K simply means that it is 14K (karat) gold and because of the K it means that it would have been made in Southeast Asia or the United States. PR marks are only manufacturer or store identification or even a designer mark, and have no relevance to value.

The basic decimal formula for calculating the quality of gold content is quite simple as they are all measured in ‘Parts Per Thousand’. This means that 9 karat gold is calculated like this: 9 (for 9 karat) is divided by pure gold (24) and then multiplied by 1000 (for pure gold as a decimal). ie: 9/24*1000=375 That 375 is the decimal quality of 9 karat gold and is sometimes shown with a decimal point in front: .375

The old Victorian 15 karat gold standard is calculated the same way: 15/24*1000 = 625 (not exactly the numbers you have on your jewelry. Dental gold is 16 karat or recurring 666. But you can also reverse this formula starting with the decimal and working backwards, i.e.: 375/1000*24 = 9

In your case we can use 698/1000*24 = almost 17ct

I have a platinum engagement ring and I found a wedding band that I really like, but the band is made of palladium. Is it safe to use these two metals together without one damaging the other?

Softer metal will wear OVER TIME, but that could take many years. My grandmother’s wedding ring eventually wore out her engagement ring band, but it took over 20 years to do so.

Platinum and palladium are pretty good together, but I would take the advice of your friendly local jeweler and have them look at both rings. Sometimes the platinum can be a lower grade to make it more difficult, so check that.

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