There seems to be no end to the ability to buy used cameras on eBay or other sales sites like Etsy. Everything from the old 120 and 620 film cameras, plate cameras and everything in between to today’s most advanced digital models. If you like film, there are literally thousands of cameras to choose from. Nikon, Olympus, Canon, Yashica, Minolta and Rollei are all there and many more. Looking for a Daci Royal? You will most likely find one on eBay like I did. How about an Olympus Pen E-PL1? I got mine on eBay. A Nikon D90? Yes, on eBay. And not only can you find the camera(s) you want, you can find just about every accessory available for that model. It’s just amazing what you can find.
Everyone dreams of finding that special camera. That flawless Minolta SRT101, or maybe that sweet-as-new Olympus OM1. Or maybe you like twin lens reflex (TLR) cameras and are looking for the really perfect Yashica 635, or a Kodak Reflex 1A. And, the truth is that they are online in places like E-bay and Etsy and others. And I’ve seen some really good ones, like new cameras that I wouldn’t hesitate to buy, like the Yashica 44A that I have and it’s in perfect condition. Another one I have is a really neat Kodak 1A pocket folder that looks unused and is in perfect working order. I also found a wonderful Kodak Six-20 Brownie Junior that takes absolutely beautiful pictures! I have been lucky and lucky in my finds. But not always.
Buying a camera, whether old or new on eBay, is a gamble and you have to completely trust the seller and how they represent the item. You don’t have the option to drive, watch or test the camera you want. In general, sellers like Cameta Camera, Adorama, KEH Camera, Henry’s of Canada are reputable places and will support your sales. It’s not that often that someone gets stuck with something less than they wanted from any reputable online seller. And these salespeople will always be there to answer questions before and after the sale and handle any issues you may have. I trust them!
But there are those who sell cameras online who are unintentionally selling cameras that will often only cause you trouble. Many of these sellers find their cameras at real estate auctions, garage sales, perhaps a thrift store or flea market. The camera looks fine to the untrained eye, and if it “clicks,” it’s supposed to work. I can’t tell you how many auction ads I’ve read where the item is described as “clicker works” or “I clicked on it” and it works. I cringe every time I read that! These are the words of a seller who is not a photographer, who is passing what he assumes is a good camera. As I mentioned, it’s not intentional and they don’t really mean sales misrepresentation. Like someone who would advertise a 1980s Minolta SRT 101. There is no 1980s SRT101 as production stopped in 1976. And during that ten year production period, 1966 to 1976, only 4 models were produced. However, this seller believes this is the period the item came from and inadvertently puts it in his ad, not to mislead, simply because he doesn’t know. If it looks good and the clicker works, then it has to be working, right? Not so fast there friend!
I have been buying used cameras online for a while now and yes I have been stuck with what I call a benchtop camera being sold in working order and in excellent condition. And on the plus side, I’ve never had any issues getting a refund or return…yet. But, it’s disappointing to wait for your prize only to find out that it’s not at all what you thought or even what the seller thought. So here are some tips on how to buy a used camera online, especially from an individual seller.
1- Find out where the camera came from and who had it. Is it an estate sale, garage sale, flea market, where? I want to know who had the camera and how it was handled and used. If I can’t focus on that, I usually pass. If it was a collector’s or photographer’s estate sale, you might look further. It’s like buying a car. Was it the “little old lady who only drove it on Sunday” or is it a flooded car from New Jersey and Hurricane Sandy?
2- Get as many photos as you can and be critical when looking at close-ups. They reveal many details and look at them more than once. Often you will see details such as scratches, cracks, tears, rust, dirt, corrosion, etc. after looking at the photos over and over again. Put it on your watch list and check back often. Pay special attention to corners, creases, gaps, knobs, and glass for signs of dirt or excessive wear. Look for scratched identification marks on the back and bottom by previous owners. I just saw one recently that had a previous owners social security number scratched into the bottom plate. There are databases where you can research stolen items, but it will cost you a few bucks. NEVER buy without looking at the actual camera. Stock images used by a seller will be approved by me each time. I don’t bother with them if they can’t show me the actual item I’m buying.
3- Ask detailed questions about the camera. Does the shutter fire correctly… at all speeds? Is the aperture ring smooth? Do the aperture blades have any oil on them? How does the lens glass look under strong light? If you like cameras, then you know what to ask and what the answer should be. And if they can’t respond, chances are you have someone who has no idea what they’re selling. I tend not to follow the “I’m selling it to a friend” routine. Like I said, it’s not intentional, just misinformed.
4- Ask to see the photos taken with that camera. When I sell a camera, I always try to include a photo that was taken with it. Film obviously takes longer to source and process, especially the old 120 and 620, but it’s available. I am selling an old Falcon Miniature 127 film camera on Etsy and have included two photos taken with that camera. This will show you any light leaks, slow shutter speeds, lens distortions, fungus, and dirt. It will also test if the movie trailer, follower and everything is working properly. And it proves without a doubt that the camera is working. I once found a Yashica Electro 35 at a flea market and it had the original battery. The battery was still working and the meter was fine. I took it home, dropped some 35mm film and left. He took some really amazing photos. The seller wanted $5 for the camera. I paid $3. I used it for about two months and really enjoyed it. I auctioned it off on eBay, gave a full description of where I got it and how it worked, including two photos I took with the camera, and ended up selling it for $65 and it still had the original battery. It was a real gem of a find and the buyer is very happy with it!
5- Compare, compare and compare. Many times a seller will not have a real idea of the real value of the camera. Like my Yashica Electro 35, sometimes they sell too low and you get a real bargain…or scrap. I got a Pentax K1000 for $15 and it works perfectly. I’m sticking with that one! Look at many many auctions. NEVER jump on the first “offer” you see. I did and it has bitten me again. When I’m searching, I usually have about ten or fifteen on my watch list. Keep looking and do your work at home. I’ll steer clear of anything marked as cleaned, lubricated and adjusted (CLA’d) unless it’s been done by a reputable company I’m familiar with. For example, if it’s an older camera that requires one of the old 1.35 volt mercury batteries, make sure it’s the battery (Wein power cell replacement) that’s in it. Sure a 1.5 will work but the light meter will be off and another problem is that the 1.5 drops too quickly in voltage and so will the light meter’s ability to work properly. I never buy one that has been “tuned” to use a newer 1.5 volt battery. To me that is camera blasphemy! Power cell replacements for the old Mercury 1.35s are available and are designed for camera use.
6- Finally, get to know the camera. If you’re looking for that really nice Rollei, look for the model you want. Is it a Rolleiflex, or is it a Rolleicord and which is the more expensive and collectible of the two? Learn the years of manufacture, the year production stopped, the standard lens used, the shutter speed range, and the aperture setting. Learn all you can about that camera. Why? Two reasons. One: If you expect to use it, you’ll know how it will work and what its limitations are. And two: if you’re looking at the camera online and certain parts don’t match what your research tells you, it may have been “restored” by someone who doesn’t know the original parts or took two different models and made a working camera. A $1200 Rolleiflex becomes an expensive paperweight if it’s discovered that it’s not all original.
Ah, one more thing. When you buy it and the camera finally arrives, smell the inside! Yes, it smells. If it smells like WD-40, I’d be working on a return…soon!
As I mentioned, there are literally thousands of cameras to choose from online. On eBay I only looked at 120 film cameras and came up with a possible 1862. The first is a Yashica 635 with a conversion kit. Next up is a Mamiya RZ67 with a 90mm lens. They both look good. But appearances can be deceiving. Never judge a book by its cover. The same goes for buying a used camera online.
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